Shikanoshima Island and the Golden Seal of Na

Shikanoshima Island is a small scenic island located in the middle of Hakata Bay in Kyushu. The island’s perimeter is only about 10km, and it offers visitors a variety of outdoor activities such as cycling, hiking, and snorkeling, thanks to its beautiful beaches and rich blue waters. The island is also known for the discovery of the Golden Seal of Na, or kinin; considered one of Japan’s most important national treasures. 

Walking Shikanoshima Island

Getting to Shikanoshima Island

Shikanoshima Island is accessible by ferry from Hakata port or you can simply walk from JR Saitozaki Station. Though it is technically an island, it is connected to Kyushu Island by a causeway.  

The ferry runs once an hour, and the bus is available from Saitozaki Station, but I think waking from Saitozaki Station is an ideal way to go to Shikanoshima Island.  The ocean is really pretty, and you can see as far as Noko Island and Itozaki Peninsula on a sunny day.

Either you walk, bus, or take a ferry, you will arrive at the Shikanoshima district on the island, the south tip of the island.   

Upon entering the island is the Shikanoshima district. Though there are no convenience stores or supermarkets, this community is the most thriving spot on the island with several restaurants and cafes.

Considering there used to be a town office in this area, I guess it is fair to say this is the center of the island. 

Shikaumi Shrine

In the north district of this community Shikanoumi Shrine. This is the ancestral shrine Watatsumi no Kami, a god of the ocean born from Izanagi and Izanami.  

Before entering the shrine, you purify yourself with sand. 

Shikanoshima Island Kinin Park: The Golden Seal of Na

Once you make your way into the Shikanoshima community, it won’t be long before you find Kinin Park. Kinin Park is where the Gold Seal of Na (henceforth “kinin”) was found in 1784. 

The kinin is a solid gold seal given by China in 57 AD to the king of Na. The kinin is considered tangible proof of trade between ancient China and Japan. Naturally, it is registered as a Japanese National Treasure. 

Perhaps the most immediate question you might ask yourself is where exactly is Na?  Naturally, people assumed that Na was on Shikanoshima Island due to the discovery of a precious stamp, but there is no evidence to support the existence of this ancient kingdom here.

Moreover, after walking the entire town, it is hard to imagine such a large kingdom ever existed here. So, it is a total mystery where Na was and what kind of relationship it had with China.  

The park is located on a hill on the island, and you can see a great view of Hakata Bay from the top of the hill. 

Just a few miles from Kinin Park is Mokozuka Mound, commemorating Japan’s victory over the Mongolian Invasion in the 13th century. When Mongolians tried to invade Japan, the Mongolian army crossed the Japan Sea into Hakata Bay, certainly passing Shikanoshima Island as well. 

It is just amazing how much of Japanese history this island has witnessed.  

The Kinin Kaido on Shikanoshima Island

On Shikanoshima Island, the 10km round road that circles the island is called the Kinin Kaido. It goes quite close to the ocean and it is very scenic. However, because it is very scenic, there can be a decent amount of traffic on the road it is also a major highway. 

The question is which way to go; clockwise or counterclockwise. Either way, you will walk the same route but I think clockwise is more fun. This way, you can see the major attractions of the island while you are still energetic.   

Most of the runners we saw went clockwise to Katsuma, the north tip of the island.  

To Katsuma via the Kinin Kaido

Since Shikanoshima has many rocky coasts, it is sometimes fun to go down the coast and find sea creatures there like sea urchins and crabs. Unlike the east side, the west side faces Hakata Bay, where the water is much calmer. 

Almost at the halfway point of the Kinin Kaido is the little community of Katsuma where the trail becomes more like a little nature trail that leads to the Osaki Observation Deck.   

Katsuma

There is a large hotel located in Katsuma, which sits right in front of the beautiful Katsuma Beach. During the summer months, I believe that many people will choose to stay at this hotel due to its proximity to Hakata and its reputation as one of the best beaches in the area. However, even in the winter season, there still seemed to be a significant number of people staying at the hotel.

Walking along the beach are Okitsugu and Nakatsugu Shrine; lesser shrines of Shikaumi Shrine. There are several little shrines of Shikaumi Shrine throughout the island. I guess all those shrines are protecting the island. 

Back to Shikaumi Shrine

After Katsuma, the Kinin Kaido goes back to Shikaumi Shrine on the west side of the island. At this point, many people head back to the west half of the trail or choose to go up the hill from Katsuma, then back to Shikaumi Shrine via the observation deck in Shiomi Park. This last half part goes along the Genkai Sea, which is famous for its rough waters. It is known as one of the best fishing grounds in Japan, providing a wide variety of fresh fish to Hakata. 

Unlike the west first half of the trail, the coast is quite rocky without almost any way to go down to the ocean. 

When we arrived here, it was winter and the ocean was very rough. Because the road is quite close to the water, we even almost got splashed by a wave. Not to mention that the wind was really strong. 

To observation deck in Shiomi Park 

After returning to Shikaumi Shrine, the trail goes up to an observation deck. It takes only 15 minutes, but it is quite a steep hill. 

On the way to the observation deck is a little shrine called Kaenzuka. Monks from Koyasan lit a holy fire there to pray for victory during the Mongolian Invasion.

On the top of the hill is the observation deck. I saw some people biking here, but it would be very hard bike to go all the way up. 

Once at the observation deck, you can see Hakata Bay and the sandbar connecting Kyushu and Shikanoshima Island. 

Overall, I think walking around Shikanoshima Osland is a very fun experience!