Obakusan Manpuku-ji, Kyoto’s One of a Kind Temple

About Ingen and Obakushu

Zen Buddhism (specifically the Soto and Rinzai schools) came to Japan from China during the Kamakura Period. However, by the Edo Period 400 years later, Zen Buddhism had noticeably adapted to Japanese culture. In order to restore more traditional Zen Buddhist practices, Ingen, a famous monk from Wanfu Temple in China’s Fujian Province, was invited to Japan.

Ingen built Manpuku-ji, in 1661, giving it the same name as his temple in China, formally establishing Obakushu in Japan.

Amazingly, the temple has never undergone any major changes since its construction in 1661. The buildings on the temple grounds clearly exhibit a number of architectural characteristics the late Ming Dynasty and the temple maintains the teachings Ingen introduced in the 17^th century. This means that their practices, especially their chants, are very distinct from other Zen Buddhist schools in Japan.

Though the gate was not that big, the temple grounds are huge. This should come as no surprise after all, since this is the head temple of the Obakushu Zen Buddhism in Japan.

Once you enter the temple grounds, you will see the tennoden straight away. A tenno-den is very characteristic of Chinese temples, and serves as the temple’s entrance. This building also sits directly in front of the main temple building, which is essentially unheard in Japanese temple construction.

Hotei, one the Seven Happy Gods, sits in the center of Tennoden. Hotei is believed to be another form of Miroku Bosatsu in China.

After Ingen arrived in Japan, he invited famous Chinese sculptor Han Dosei [氾道生] to Manpuki-ji. Han’s works, including this statue of Hotei, are very distinct from Buddha statues made by Japanese sculptors.

One of the most iconic and famous things in Obakusan Manpuku-ji is the Kaipan, an unusual, yet oddly cute, wooden fish.

Though it may look like just a random fish, the monks use it as a sort of bell. A number of people also speculate that this is the first mokugyo (wooden bell) in Japan.

Because fish never close their eyes, this encourages monks to practice with as little sleep as possible. Furthermore, the ball it spits out represents the earthly desire. There are a number of unusual bells, though no others fish shaped, around the temple. 

Daihouonden

What would commonly be a hondo at a typical Japanese temple, the Daihououden is the main temple building at Mapuku-ji where Shakazanzon is enshrined.

Shakasazon is a combination of three statues, Shaka Nyorai in the center plus two other statues, usually two different bosatsu. What is unusual about Obakusan Manpuku-ji is that instead of two bosatsu, there are two rakan: Anan and Daikasho.

In Buddhism, a rakan is a monk who attained enlightenment, whereas a nyorai or a bosatsu is basically a Buddha. I think it is very rare to see rakan right next to Shaka Nyorai–at least in Japan. Maybe it is different in China?

Information: Obakusan Manpuku-ji