Nyoirin-ji Temple and the Grave of Go-daigo

October 19, 2019 KansaiOdyssey Shrines, Yoshino

For many who visit Yoshino, the main attractions are, apart from the thousands of cherry blossoms in the spring, are Kinpusen-ji and Yoshimizu Shrine. Sadly, another historically significant site at Yoshino is left unfrequented by many: Nyoirin-ji Temple. It is the resting place of none other than Emperor Go-daigo.

Nyoirin-ji

Nyoirin-ji originated in the 10^th century, but only became popular after Emperor Go-daigo came to Yoshino. In 1336, he decreed Nyoirin-ji as the temple to pray for peace for the Southern Court. Though this is not a big temple, it certainly played a big role in Go-daigo’s government.

Shortly upon entering the temple you will see the small hondo. Given the temple’s name, its main deity is probably Nyoirin Kannon, though the main deity is usually sealed inside the temple.

The entrance of Nyoirinji Temple — Nyoirin-ji entrance

700 year commemoration flag of Emperor Godaigo — 700 years since Emperor Godaigo

Another famous person featured in this temple is Kusunoki Masatsura, the son of Kusunoki Masashige. After Masashige died, in order to avenge his father, Masatsura went to Shijonawate in Osaka to fight the Northern Court. Just before heading to battle, Masatsura went to see the emperor of the Southern Court and to pray for his peace at Nyoirin-ji.

Goryo-den in Nyoirin-ji Temple — Goryo-den: Enshrines a statue hand carved by Go-daigo’s himself. Unfortunately, the statue is not on public display it is not open to public.

The Grave of Emperor Go-daigo

The biggest historic spot in this temple is the grave of Emperor Go-daigo. To reach his grave, walk up the stairs near the hondo. Don’t worry, the stairs aren’t that long.

Emperor Go-daigo opened his Southern Court in Yoshino because political tensions forced him out of Kyoto.

Grave of Emperor Go-daigo in Nyoirin-ji Temple — Grave of Emperor Go-daigo

He always longed to one day return to Kyoto, but alas, it was not to be. It is not coincidence then that his grave faces the direction Kyoto. His final poem clearly states his desire for his former home:

「玉骨はたとひ南山の苔に埋むるとも魂魄は常に北闕の天を望まんと思う」

“Even though I will be part of the moss of Yoshino, my soul is always longing for the skies of Kyoto”　