Miidera Temple: Shiga’s Largest and Most Famous Temple

Lake Biwa attracts thousands of tourists from all over Japan every year. But there is more to Shiga than Lake Biwa. Specifically, on the border of Shiga and Kyoto are many interesting temples that were very influential throughout Japanese history. One such example is  Miidera in Otsu City. 

Miidera Temple

Miidera Temple as “Phoenix Temple”

In 686, Prince Kadono built Onjyoji to commemorate his father, Prince Otomo ( aka Emperor Kobun), who died at the end of the Jinshin War. The temple’s name eventually changed to Miidera, which comes from three wells on the temple grounds. 

In the 9th century, a brilliant monk by the name Enchin was hard at work in  Enryakuji Temple in Hieizan. After much due diligence, Enchin went abroad to study Buddhism in China. However, after he came back from China, he and another monk, Ennin, began to have profound disagreements, from Buddhist philosophy to how to run the temple.

The rift between these two monks created a deep divide at the temple. Ultimately, Enchin decided to leave Enryakuji and move to Miidera Temple. There, Enchin acquired many followers and Miidera soon gained as much recognition. Though this was an exciting time for Miidera Temple, not everyone was happy. As Enchin and Miidera’s rose to power, many at Enraykuji were left with a bitter taste in their mouths.

After Enchin’s death, Enryakuji was practically leading an outright assault on Miidera Temple. Their hatred for one another was so bad that Enryakuji burnt down Miidera Temple more than 10 times!

Due to the constant destruction and rebuilding of Mii-dera, the temple eventually earned itself the name “Phoenix Temple”.

Mii-dera Temple Grounds

Since Mii-dera is quite big, there are several entrances, but when we went there, we entered from the biggest gate, the Niomon Gate, located on the north side of the temple.

The kondo, the main temple building, is just after the Niomon Gate.  This part of the temple is a good representation of temple buildings from the Momoyama Period and is designated as a Japanese National Treasure.

The main Buddha enshrined in the kondo is Miroku Busatsu. Allegedly, the temple’s oldest main Buddha statue of Miroku Bosatsu was a gift from Emperor Tenmu, but nobody has ever actually seen it.

Also, behind the kondo is one of the temple’s famous wells, which the name of Miidera Temple comes from.

Miidera, literally means “three wells temple”, but this does not mean there are three wells like Kimiidera Temple, but because the well was used for the very first baths for three emperors; Tenji, Tenmu, and Jito.

Bell

Next to the kondo is another of Miidera’s most popular attractions: its bell.

Along with bells at the Byodoin and Jingo-ji Temple, Mii-dera’s bell is one of the three best bells in Japan, particularly known for its beautiful sound. The bell next to the kondo is not the original but is still quite old and dates back to 1602.

According to a folk story from the Kamakura Period, the famous warrior monk, Benkei, stole the bell and brought it back to Enryaku-ji. However, after arriving in Enryaku-ji, the bell said “Ino, ino”, which literally means, “I want to go home”. Terrified by the talking bell, Benkei threw it into a gorge. It was only later that the bell was successfully retrieved and brought home to Mii-dera.  

The original bell from the 8th century is housed in the Reishodo, just a few feet away from the kondo.

To Kannon-do via To-in

While Mii-dera’s main attraction is the kondo, its Kannon-do is just as popular. It takes 10-15 minutes to walk from Kondo to Kannnondo.  As Miidera is located in the forest, it is a quite nice walk!

On the way to Kannon-do is Toin, where literature Enchin brought back from China was stored. Also, it is in Toin that Enchin’s grave is located though you cannot see it at all from outside. 

Considering Enchin played a major role in Miidera, it can be said that Toin is one of the most sacred places in the temple complex. 

Kannon-do

The Kannon-do enshrines a statue of Nyoirin Kannon from the Heian Period and is the 14th stop in the Saigoku Pilgrimage. The statue of Nyoirin Kannon is open to public once every 33 years.

You can get a good view of the Lake Biwa from the Kannon-do as well.