Obakusan Manpuku-ji, Kyoto’s One of a Kind Temple

Zen Buddhism (specifically the Soto and Rinzai schools) came to Japan from China during the Kamakura Period. However, by the Edo Period 400 years later, Zen Buddhism had noticeably adapted to Japanese culture. In order to restore more traditional Zen Buddhist practices, monk Itsunen Shoyu invited Ingen, a famous monk from Wanfu Temple [萬福寺] in China’s Fujian Province, to Japan.

Ingen, who was already an old man at the time, initially declined and instead sent one of his disciples in his place. Unfortunately, his disciple died on the way to Japan. Realizing there was no alternative, the 63 year old Ingen made his way to Japan.

After arriving in Nagasaki news of his arrival in Japan spread quickly, eventually catching the ear of Tokugawa Iemitsu, the fourth shogun of Edo government. The shogun summoned Ingen to an audience and granted Ingen a large plot of land in Uji, Kyoto.

It was on this plot that Ingen built Manpuku-ji, in 1661, giving it the same name as his temple in China, formally establishing Obakushu in Japan.

Amazingly, the temple has never undergone any major changes since its construction in 1661. The buildings on the temple grounds clearly exhibit a number of architectural characteristics the late Ming Dynasty and the temple maintains the teachings Ingen introduced in the 17^th century. This means that their practices, especially their chants, are very distinct from other Zen Buddhist schools in Japan.

Hotei [布袋], one the Seven Happy Gods, sits in the center of Tennoden. Hotei is believed to be another form of Miroku Bosatsu in China.

After Ingen arrived in Japan, he invited famous Chinese sculptor Han Dosei [氾道生] to Manpuki-ji. Han’s works, including this statue of Hotei, are very distinct from Buddha statues made by Japanese sculptors.

What would commonly be a hondo at a typical Japanese temple, the Daihououden is the main temple building at Mapuku-ji where Shakazanzon [釈迦三尊像] is enshrined.

Shakasazon is a combination of three statues, Shaka Nyorai [釈迦如来] in the center plus two other statues, usually two different bosatsu. What is unusual about Obakusan Manpuku-ji is that instead of two bosatsu, there are two rakan [羅漢]: Anan and Daikasho. In Buddhism, a rakan is a monk who attained enlightenment, whereas a nyorai [如来] or a bosatsu [菩薩] is basically a Buddha. I think it is very rare to see rakan right next to Shaka Nyorai–at least in Japan. Maybe it is different in China?

Furthermore, there are as many as eighteen rakan statues near the main statue. Those rakan statues were also made by Han Dosei, so they have very distinctive faces from Japanese one.

The hatto is where sermons are conducted and where the monks study. Because of this, the building is not open to the public.

There are several other things in this temple, so let me show you some of what we found.

Kaipan

One of the most iconic and famous things in Obakusan Manpuku-ji is the Kaipan, an unusual, yet oddly cute, wooden fish.

Though it may look like just a random fish, the monks use it as a sort of bell. A number of people also speculate that this is the first mokugyo (wooden bell) in Japan. Because fish never close their eyes, this encourages monks to practice with as little sleep as possible. Furthermore, the ball it spits out represents the earthly desire. There are a number of unusual bells, though no others fish shaped, around the temple.