Sanin/Kyushu

Kurayoshi Shirakabe Dozo-gun: The Historic District in Sanin

Right next to Tottori City lies the charming town of Kurayoshi. When you step off the train, you might initially think there isn’t much to explore. However, a brief bus ride will transport you to Kurayoshi Shirakabe Dozo-gun. Here, you can explore a stunning line of traditional warehouses and homes, their pristine white walls contrasting beautifully with vibrant red-tiled roofs. This district is a wonderful example of Meiji era and even Edo Period buildings and offers a chance to encounter a different side of Japan’s rich history and cultural heritage.

About Kurayoshi Shirakabe Dozo-gun

Kurayoshi Shirakabe Dozo-gun is about a 15-minute bus ride from Kurayoshi Station. Walking there takes significantly longer, as it is quite a distance.

Tottori is the capital of Tottori Prefecture, while Kurayoshi is somewhat less prominent. However, this was not always the case. In the past, the region was known as Hoki, and Kurayoshi was the center of Hoki, rather than Tottori.

The origins of Kurayoshi can be traced back to the Muromachi period, during which a castle was built on Uchibuki Mountain. Kurayoshi, located at the foot of the mountain, developed as a castle town.

Mt. Utsubuki and Kurayoshi Shirakabe Dozo-gun
Mt. Utsubuki and Kurayoshi Shirakabe Dozo-gun

During the Edo period, Utsubuki Castle was demolished, but Kurayoshi flourished as a commercial and industrial city. It became known for its specialty products, including Kurayoshi Kasuri, a type of fabric. The warehouses constructed from the late Edo period to the Meiji period can now be seen in the Shirakabe Dozo-gun area.

 

Historic Kurayoshi Shirakabe Dozo-gun

Honmachi-dori is the main street of the historic district of Shirakabe Dozo-gun. Walking along, one can see many old merchant houses lined up in rows. Some have been renovated into cafes and souvenir shops, making it quite a tourist attraction.

Gensui brewery
Gensui Sake brewery was opened in Edo period.
Kuwata soy sauce factory
Kuwata soy sauce (right). Opened in 1877.

If you look closely at the top, you will see many red roofs. These are Sekishu Tiles, which are made in Iwami in Shimane prefecture. The tile has a tint of red, so the contrast between the bright red color and the blue sky is beautiful.

Shirakabe Dozo-gun historic district
The historic district of Shirakabe Dozo-gun
Toyota Residence in the historic district of Shirakabe Dozo-gun
Toyota Residence (right). It used to be a clothing store.

Some of the houses in this historic district are Western-style houses that probably date back to the Taisho era, when the Western style houses were common. 

National Daisan Bank Kurayoshi Branch
National Daisan Bank Kurayoshi Branch, built in 1908
The former building of Nippon Sangyo Chochiku Bank
The former bank building was built in 1931(left). It is another Western-style building
old boards
It says “Meiji Chocolate” and “Morinaga Caramel”.

Each house may not appear very large, but that is a common characteristic of old towns in Japan. To maximize the number of homes facing the front street, many buildings are long and have narrow entrances. Despite the small gates, there are often courtyards and storehouses within the properties, making the houses surprisingly spacious.

old three-story Japanese-style house
Never seen an old three-story house!! (right)
Mt. Utsubuki
Mt. Utsubuki. It is not a super big mountain

Storehouses

Just one street off Honmachi Dori, you can find storehouses with white walls lining the street. With the Utsubuki Tamagawa River flowing behind these storehouses, the area exudes the charm of an old Japanese town, creating a beautiful atmosphere.

Kurayoshi Shirakabe Dozo-gun
The upper part of the storehouse has white plaster, while the lower part consists of cedar boards.
Shirakabe Dozo-gun
The small stream is the Utsubuki Tamagawa River.

Makita Residence

Just a short distance from the historic district is the Makita Residence, also known as Kurayoshi Yodoya. This merchant house belonged to Yodoya, the most successful merchant in Osaka. Today, it is open to visitors free of charge.

In fact, we traveled all the way from Osaka to see this. I can’t help but wonder what Yodoya thought of Osaka when he made the journey to Kurayoshi.

Makita Residence
Makita Residence, also known as Kurayoshi Yodoya. The house is actually really big!

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