Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine: 800 Beautiful Ume Trees!

In February, the very first spring flowers start to bloom. The most famous and iconic of these flowers are plum blossoms, or ume. While Osaka might not be everyone’s first thought when it comes to ume, Osaka offers many places where you can enjoy the ume blossoms. Some of the most famous ones are: Osaka Castle Park, Kozen Park, Hiraoka Shrine, and Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine . Domyo-ji Tenmangu Shrine in particular has 800 trees and 80 different kinds of ume trees!

Doyomoji Tenmangu Shrine

Domyoji Tenmangu is Tenmangu Shrine, dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane. 

In fact, Michizane’s aunt lived around here. Just after the emperor banished Michizane from his beloved Kyoto, he stopped here to see his aunt one last time. When dawn broke on the morning of his departure, a rooster crowed. Quickly, Michizane penned what became of his most famous poems:

鳴けばこそ 別れも憂けれ 鶏の音の なからん里の 暁もがな
Because rooster cries, I must leave. If only I could live in a land with no roosters.

After Michizane died, Domyoji Tenmangu was built.

Right next to the torii, Haji Shrine, the original shrine of Domyo-ji Tenmangu. Nomi no Sukune and several other gods are enshrined in Haji Shrine.

Right next to Domoyoji Tenmnagu Shrine is Domyoji Temple, enshrining a Kwannon statue made by Michizane made by himself. Domyoji Temple and Domyoji Tenmangu once shared the same land, but during the Meiji Period, the government forced them to separate.

After the main torii, you will see the haiden, and behind the haiden is the honden. Inside the honden Amenohohi, Sugawara no Michizane and Michizane’s aunt are enshrined.

Ume Garden

The plum garden is located right behind the Honden. There are 800 ume trees of 80 breeds of Ume! Every year the shrine hosts a small ume festival when the flowers are at their peek in February and March.  

Domyoji Tenmangu is a really pretty shrine to visit in the early spring. It is an especially popular place for photographers of all skill levels when the ume are in full bloom. Because it is a not sitting right in the middle of Osaka City, the crowds feel manageable. Definitely a great spot!