Experience Osaka’s National Bunraku Theater

In Japan, there are several forms of well-known theatrical arts such as kabuki, Noh and kyogen to name of few. One of these traditional arts is puppet theater or bunraku, which originated in Osaka, which is also home to the National Bunraku Theater. Though puppet shows might sound like something meant for children, bunraku is mainly for adults. In a bunraku play, the musicians, the narrator and puppeteers, all act together to transport the audience into the story. When you have the pleasure of visiting Osaka, watching bunraku should definitely be on your list.

 

The History of Bunraku

What is commonly referred to as bunraku, was traditionally called ningyo-joururi [人形浄瑠璃]. In its earliest form, a joururi tells a story while accompanied with traditional Japanese sting instruments like the biwa or shamisen, as well as a puppet, or ningyo.

Narrator’s book

The Creation of the Human Drama

It was in the early Edo Period that the popularity of this art form really began to take off. Around this time, the famous storyteller, Takemoto Gidayu [竹本義太夫] and the “Japanese Shakespaer”, Chikamatsu Monzaemon [近松門左衛門], created the Takemoto-za Theater. This theater got massively popular, so much in fact that the previously struggling theater managed to pay off all their debts! Furthermore, the works of Chikamatsu began new era for the art, by moving away from Japanese history to human dramas. His stories were so compelling and popular that they were adapted to the kabuki stage.

model of a bunraku stage
Model of a bunraku stage

Unfortunately, bunraku gradually declined as kabuki started gaining popularity in Osaka and Takamoto-za closed in the mid-18th century. It was only in 19th century that a man from Awajishima called Uemura Bunrakuken [植村文楽軒] started his own theater, Bunraku-za. His theater gained so much popularity and success that his very name came to mean ningyo joururi, i.e bunraku.

Memorial for Chikamatsu’s Takemoto-za in Dotonbori

Aspects of Bunraku

Today there are two kinds of bunraku shows: jidai-mono [時代物]and sewa-mono [世話物]. Jidai-mono are about historic Japanese events, so it may be hard to follow along if you don’t know a lot about Japanese history, However, sewa-mono or human dramas, are much easily to understand and relate to. More often than not, these are tragic love stories usually end with at least a couple deaths.

Monument for Ohatsu and Tokubei, the main characters of the most famous sewa-mono, Sonezaki Shinju, written by Chikamatsu Monzaemon.

The most captivating part of a bunraku is the unison of puppeteers, musicians, and narrator. Individually, each person has their own unique skill set, but together, these artists bring the story to life.

bunraku puppet held by three puppeteers
Bunraku puppet with puppeteers

As the narrator dictates the story and the character’s lines, the music adds a layer of drama and atmosphere, allowing the audience to suspend reality and become lost in the story. Meanwhile, all three puppeteers manipulate, seemingly effortlessly, the expressions of the doll’s face. With little more than a few flicks of the wrist, the doll’s face comes to life, able to express a wide range of emotions.

Bunraku puppet

Getting to the National Bunraku Theater

National Bunraku Theater is very easy to access. Using the Osaka Metro, get off at either Nipponbashi Station, or Sennichimae Station via the Sakaisuji Line. From either station it’s just a couple of minutes east.

front of the National Bunraku Theater in Osaka
Theater entrance

 

The National Bunranku Theater

The National Bunraku Theater is the fourth national theater ever created in Japan. In this theater hosts not only bunraku plays, but other many other forms of traditional performing arts throughout the year.

inside the national bunraku theater
Inside the theater

 

Since the shows vary month to month, make sure to check out ahead of time which shows are playing! Also, if you buy a ticket for entire showing, you will sit through not one play but several.

Ticket for a single act bunraku play

This ticket will cost 2,400 yen (better seat around 6,000 yen) and it takes approx 4 hours to see the entire show. If that feels a little daunting to you, don’t worry, there are tickets for just a single act plays too!

 

Additional Information

Plays Not Held Everyday

It is important to mention that the National Bunraku Theater does not have bunraku performances every day. So, make sure check the schedule before you come to the theater.

Japanese Not Required

The narrator often uses an old form of the Osaka dialect, so even if you understand Japanese, it may still be a bit hard to understand. However, don’t worry. Above the stage is monitor that translates the story into modern Japanese. But if you don’t speak Japanese that’s fine too!

auido guide from the National Bunraku Theater
Audio Guide

There are audio guides you can rent for just 700 yen (300 yen for single acts) before the show. You have to make a deposit of 1,700 yen, but you will get 1,000 back when you return the audio guide. I even tried one and was pleasantly surprised with the quality. Don’t feel like you are missing out by using an audio guide! Lots of Japanese people can have a hard time with these old plays since the narrators speak in classical Japanese with an Osaka dialect.

Very Affordable

Many Japanese performing arts like Noh or kabuki, can be quite expensive; commonly starting at 10,000 yen per person. This steep price makes even most Japanese people hesitate to go. However, premium seating for a 4 hour show is only around 6,000 yen and 2,500 yen for cheaper seats. To be honest though, even the cheaper seats offer a very clear view of the show.

seating chart of the National Bunraku Theater
Makumiseki seat are the last two rows on the far left and right (orange)

If you want to go even cheaper, you can buy makumiseki tickets. makumiseki is only for one single act and only costs 500-2,000 yen. However, there are only about 16 makumiseki tickets per show and you can’t reserve them.

Costs of makumiseki tickets

 

Kamigata Engei Tokusenkai [上方演芸特選会]

In addition to the traditional puppet theater, every other month the theater hosts Kamigata Engei Tokisenkai. These shows consist of several kinds of performances such as: rakugo, kodan, and rokyoku. While you might be able to find a rakugo performance somewhere other than Osaka, it is very hard to find places that host kodan or rokyoku. Tickets are also very inexpensive, just 2,000 yen per person. I would caution that these sets are only in Japanese with no additional language support, not to mention the performers use a lot of heavy Osaka-ben. All the same it is a very interesting experience, so if you are curious give it a try.

 

 

Coming next time,
One of Kyoto’s most popular temples, Rokkaku-do

The adventure continues…

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