Atago Shrine: The Tengu and God of Fire

On the top of Mt. Atago in Kyoto is Atago Shrine. Known as the shrine to the god of fire, this shrine is favored by local people in Kyoto. Moreover, it is long believed that Tengu resides in this mountain.

 

Atago Shrine

The Legend of Atago Shrine

According to shrine legend, the origin of the shrine dates back to the 8th century when En no Gyojya, the founder of mountain Buddhism, built a hut in Mt. Atago. Later, Wake no Kiyomaro built Hakuun-ji Temple to enshrine the god of the mountain, Atago Daigongen. Later, the main deity of the temple became Katsugun Jizo, who is more like a Buddhist warrior deity. By enshrining Katsugun Jizo, many warriors from the region came to worship at the temple.

Unfortunately, the Meiji Restoration forced Buddhism and Shinto to completely separate, resulting in the destruction of Hakuun-ji Temple. Soon after, Atago Shrine was erected and the popular Katsugun Jizo was moved to another temple.

image of tengu riding a boar at Atago Shrine
Atago Tarobo on boar: Boar are the servants of the tengu at Atago.

Mt. Atago is also well known for the tengu who lives in the mountain named Atago Tarobo. There is even a legend that says En no Gyojya decided to build a hut here because he met this tengu in Mt. Atago. Records also indicate that Hakuun-ji temple did in fact enshrine this tengu.

 

Shrine Grounds

After you pass Kuromon gate, this will at last flatten out. The top was 5 degrees colder than the foot of the mountain and partially covered with snow.

Shrine grounds of Atago Shrine covered in snow on Mt. Atago
Shrine grounds were covered in a thin blanket of snow
snowmen: it was warm that morning, so the snow was starting to melt when we got there.
More stairs—why!

Entrance to Atago Shrine

Finally, after 2 and a half hours, we made it to the main prayer hall.

main shrine building of Atago Shrine
Honden

Currently, the main god of Atago Shrine is Izanami and her children, namely the god of fire, Kaguzuchi. People in Kyoto traditionally climbed this mountain to get special fire-prevention charms and amulets to put in their kitchens.

Boar carving in the honden of Atago Shrine
Boar carving in the honden
Dude, it’s cold up here.

Atago Shrine

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