Nara is home to many of Japan’s ancient treasures. The tiny quaint village of Asuka, might not seem like little more than a dot on the map now, but it was once the thriving capital of Japan! There are many archaeological sites and ancient structures throughout the village, but one of the most famous is Asuka-dera Temple [飛鳥寺]. What makes this temple in the middle of nowhere so famous? Oh, it is only the first and oldest full-scale temple in Japan!
The History of Asuka-dera Temple
According to the Nihon Shoki, during the war between the Sogo and Mononobe clans, in 596 C.E. Soga no Umako built Hoko-ji Temple, now known as Asuka-dera, where he prayed for victory over Mononobe no Moriya. The temple’s principle object of worship is a bronze Buddha statue known as the Asuka Great Buddha. This statue dates back to 606 C.E. and is likely the work of renowned Buddhist sculptor Kuratsukuri no Tori [鞍作 止利].
While many people think Shitenno-ji is Japan’s first temple, but construction of Shitenno-ji started in 593 C.E. and wasn’t completed until after 596 C.E. This means that Asuka-dera predates Shitenno-ji, making it the very first full scale temple in Japan.
The Endurance of Asuka-dera
After the capital relocated from Asuka to Heijo-kyo, Asuka-dera also moved with it renamed as Gango-ji.
The original temple remained in Asuka, and was more or less forgotten. Then, in the Kamakura Period, lightning struck the temple causing a massive fire that burnt down much of the temple. The fire was so bad that it left the bronze Buddha statue exposed to the elements for centuries after! It was only by the end of the Edo Period that people built the current temple for the statue. Because of years of being out in the open, the statue has needed a number of repairs. Even with these repairs, this statue could very well be the oldest Buddha idol in Japan.
Getting to Asuka-dera Temple
The closest station to Asuka-dera is the Kintetsu Asuka Station off the Kintetsu Minami Osaka line. From Osaka the easiest thing to do, is to take the express line bound for Yoshino from Kintetsu Abenobashi Station. Then, get off at either Kashihara Jingu Mae or Asuka Station. It will take roughly an hour or so to get to Asuka from Osaka.
At either station, take a bus called Akakame to the temple. Since Akakame runs only once an hour, it can be a bit inconvenient.
Instead, many people use rental bikes that are available in front of Asuka Station for 1,000 yen for 1 day.
Asuka Kingdom Passport
Make a stop in the visitors center before you get on the bus and buy an Asuka Passport.
This passport is essentially a coupon booklet that has discounts on admission to tons of museums, parks, and temples throughout Asuka. The passport also includes a useful map of the village. It’s only 100 yen, and in itself is a cute souvenir.
The temple grounds are pretty small, but it still had a good number of visitors when we went there.
Addmission to the hondo is 350 yen for adults and 200 yen for children.
The Asuka Great Buddha
The hondo enshrines the Asuka Great Buddha, Shaka Nyorai Zazo [釈迦如来坐像]. Normally, you are not allowed to take pictures a temple’s principle object of worship, but its ok here!
The Buddha’s soft gaze and smile, called an “archaic smile”, are tale-tell signs of Buddha statues from the Asuka Period.
Another interesting fact about this statue is that he has never moved from this original spot ever since he arrived to the temple.
Unfortunately, only part of the face, left ear and finger remain from the original statue. Since only these parts of the original statue remain, it is unable to qualify as a Japanese National Treasure.
There two other statues next to the Asuka Great Buddha.
On the right is a golden statue of Amida Nyorai Zazo from the Heian Period.
On the left is a wooden statue of Prince Shotoku praying for the health of his father. The statue is from the Muromachi Period and is a rare find, indeed.
Iruka’s Grave Marker
Once you see the Great Buddha, head outside the temple for another popular spot, the grave marker of Soga no Iruka [蘇我入鹿].
Soga no Iruka was killed by Prince Naka no Oe and Nakatomi no Kamatari during the Isshi Conflict in nearby Asuka Itabuki Palace. Legend says his head flew from the palace all the way Asuka-dera.
Ironically, in front of the grave is Keyakinoki Square. Supposedly, it was in this square that Prince Naka no Oe and Nakatomi no Kamatari met and played that fateful game of cuju where they conspired to kill Iruka.
Japan’s First Dairy Products
Asuka paved the way for dairy in Japan. Records indicate that wealthy people started to drink milk around the Taika Reforms. Also, in the 7th century a kind of cheese called so [蘇] was very popular.
Recently, a company in Asuka revived the production of so, along with a few other dairy products made from traditional methods.
These treats are now popular souvenirs. Be sure to try some in the shop next to Asuka-dera Temple!
*We wanted to buy the cheese, but we had a lot of walking to do and it was, so having to carry it around didn’t seem like a good idea.
|Address||682 Asuka, Takaichi-gun, Nara〒634-0103|
|Hours of Operation||Apr-Sep|
|Admission Fee||Adults: 350 yen|
Students/Seniors: 250 yen
Asuka-dera Temple is very small today, and if you do not know the historic importance of the temple, it might seem like much. But this temple is crucial to a great number of things connecting to the beginnings of Japan and Buddhism. Asuka-dera Temple should be one of your first stops on your trip to Asuka Village!
Coming next time,
Our last stop on our journey through Ancient Japan, Oka-dera Temple
The adventure continues…